An end to fashion elitism not in Milan

Social media are being credited with democratizing the landscape of fashion in London and New York.

But in Milan’s swankiest shopping street, an end to the industry’s ingrained elitism, with its invitation-only events and cosy tribalism, still seems a long way off.
Via Montenapoleone, home to the flagship stores of the cream of Italian design, is where the conceptual currency of the catwalks is converted into hard cash.
And in its glittering stores, platinum credit cards will keep the cash tills ringing long after the fashionistas have decamped to the next catwalk fest in Paris.
Window-shopping with a friend, local Lila Sciacca says few in the city would dispute the economic benefits of fashion week: 48 million euros ($54 million) was City Hall’s estimate of the revenues driven by the last bash.
An amateur dressmaker, Sciacca is one of millions of fashion fans who stream live webcasts of the catwalk shows to digital devices.
But the exclusivity of the shows still rankles.
“At the shows it is always the same cast of people,” she told AFP. “If you are not an insider or in the business, you have to be connected.
“And let’s be frank, how many people can actually afford these clothes we are talking about when every day is a struggle to survive?“
Also grumbling over fashion’s exclusive reflexes is Milan’s new mayor, Giuseppe Sala.
The organizer of last year’s successful World Expo, Sala recently told fashion chiefs that, “in terms of participation, there is much more than can be done.”
Italy’s Chamber of Fashion hit back, citing 30 publicly accessible events running in parallel with the latest shows.
Among them was “Outside In,” an open air exhibition of new images by acclaimed British photographer Rankin that lined Via Montenapoleone.
“I really hate elitism in itself, so I am probably the opposite of most of the industry,” he said.
The photo-sharing website Instagram has had a hugely disruptive impact on the fashion world.
The vast followings of models like Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner and Cara Delevigne have made them hugely influential players, giving them the kind of commercial clout that was once the preserve of a handful of editors of glossy magazines.
Rankin, the co-founder of influential 1990s style magazine Dazed & Confused, says the change is exciting, even if he has some misgivings.
“David Bailey had a great quote when he was asked about Instagram and social media and said ‘It is just lots more people taking bad photos’.
“Instagram and social media and being able to buy straight form the catwalk is the antithesis of what it used to be about.

Source: Arab News